‘Each step we take is an escape’: the intrepid hikers exploring war-torn Yemen | Global development

On a warm spring afternoon in Haz, 40km north-east of Sana’a, Yemen’s capital, a curious child asks Fatima al-Aghbari if her bag carries treasure. After all, Aghbari is a stranger who has hiked for miles across rugged terrain to reach this rarely visited location – it is assumed she is in search of artefacts scattered among the village’s archaeological sites.

Along with the rest of Yemen, historic Haz, famed for its pre-Islamic remains, has been snared in back-to-back conflicts for more than a decade. An acute humanitarian and economic crisis, coupled with a volatile security situation, has dramatically reduced domestic tourism.

So the sight of a group of outsiders hiking the seldom-trodden paths to Haz, prompts suspicion among locals that the travellers are there for nothing but looting. Hiking, after all, is virtually unheard of in Yemen.

Aghbari laughs at the child’s question and shows her the bag’s simple contents: bread, cream cheese and other essentials for the day’s hiking expedition.

While few Yemenis hike, female hikers are even more unusual. El-Masha’oon, the group to which Aghbari belongs, offers a rare opportunity for men and women to take part in outdoor sport, connect with nature and explore their war-torn country for free.

Created three years ago by the octogenarian Saeed al-Saruri, El-Masha’ooun brings together dozens of members in weekly organised excursions across Yemen’s capital and countryside, traversing mountains, plains, valleys and areas of archaeological and touristic interest.

The Yemeni writer Abdul Karim Alrazehi, a co-founder of the group, says: “Life is filled with beauty and wonderful things, but we must make an effort to uncover the beauty surrounding us.”

According to Aghbari, a 30-year-old journalist, “each step we take across the rugged landscape serves as an escape from the dismal reality that has drained the joy from citizens’ lives”.

In 2011, mass protests that broke out across Yemen in demand of political reforms gave way to a civil war, in which regional players became involved. In 2015, Saudi Arabia led a coalition to reinstate an internationally recognised government that was expelled from the capital by the Houthis, an Iran-backed military group claiming power over most of the country.

The conflict has caused one of the world’s largest humanitarian crises: more than half the population – about 18.2 million people – depend on humanitarian assistance; roughly 14% of Yemenis are displaced, and an estimated 7 million people struggle with psychological trauma and stress.

To escape the pressures of everyday life, Saruri sought nature. He started hiking, a sport previously practised by a few, mostly foreign embassy and NGO staff along with local colleagues, until the conflict led to embassy closures and staff evacuations.

Social media posts by Saruri and Alrazehi of their excursions drew hundreds of members to the group, of all ages and genders. Participants can learn navigation skills, as well as socialising, on guided hikes of eight-10km.

Aghbari says: “My passion for nature, adventure, exploring new places, and forming connections drove me to contact Alrazehi and request to participate.”

Only a handful of members are women, and of those Aghbari is the most active, having taken part in 17 trips since joining in July 2023. But she has missed numerous outings due to societal constraints on women. In Yemen’s conservative society, governed by laws rooted in tradition, women require “mahram”, a male escort from immediate family, such as a father, uncle or brother, particularly for overnight stays in local accommodations or hotels.

Aghbari was only able to travel to Haz since the journey involved a car ride to cut much of the distance. She says she feels blessed to have a family that supports her enthusiasm for travel. “My father instilled in me from a young age the importance of being resilient among men and not fearing them. Consequently, they didn’t object to my participation in trips with male companions. They also understand that if I ever felt threatened, I would withdraw. However, from day one, the team proved to be like fathers and brothers to me.”

Societal limitations have also prevented social researcher Aisha Muharram from joining excursions. “It’s disheartening. I couldn’t participate in many trips due to the distant locations requiring overnight stays,” she says.

Nevertheless, Muharram, who joined the group two months ago, describes her experience as “highly rewarding”.

“It helped alleviate feelings of emptiness, and life pressures that can lead to depression. I also had the opportunity to meet exceptional individuals, motivating me to continue participating in future outings,” she says.

The security situation poses an additional challenge. The Houthis have established checkpoints on the main roads connecting governorates and on secondary routes. These have become a significant hurdle, often impeding travel.

“Our team is frequently stopped at security checkpoints and questioned about our identity and the purpose of our journey,” says Saruri, adding that they have occasionally been denied access to certain areas.

“We respond to inquiries calmly,” he says. “We explain that we are a sports, recreational and tourism group that enjoys exploring mountaintops and valleys while showcasing the beauty of the places we visit.”

This piece was published in collaboration with Egab.